Zorba’s Dance
Oct. 18th, 2026 08:18 pmFlew to Heraklion Thursday of last week for the Lionesses’ World Cup qualifier. The apparently helpful lady in the bus ticket kiosk directed me onto the wrong bus for my hotel. In fairness she’d probably only heard me say “Leoforos 62 Martyron” and didn’t hear the number at the end - L62M is a very long main road so has a plethora of bus stops, each identified with a building number at the end. Thankfully, Heraklion’s buses tell you what the next three stops are, so I was able to get off before the bus turned off L62M.
Problem - I went to consult my phone, to find the route to walk the rest of the way, and found I was without internet. I made my way to the nearest bus stop to the hotel by following the numbers on the buildings (not as many of them displayed their numbers as one would have liked). Once there, thankfully the street my hotel was on was just off the main road and had a street name sign displayed. The hotel was a few minutes’ walk along the crumbling pavement.
The hotel was an ‘apart hotel’ and my room indeed turned out to be a spacious apartment. Once there I rang EE UK and explained my lack of net. The customer service agent advised me to hang up and then change mobile networks. Thank goodness that did the trick.
The main road my hotel was just off was mostly buildings like car and furniture showrooms with no eateries in evidence. A sign in the front porch of the hotel said there was food and drink 8 minutes along the main road. Sure enough, there was a cafe with the comforting sight of the familiar Coca-Cola awning. The menu was in Greek only, so I went with what I knew - a chicken souvlaki. Very tasty.
Steph messaged to say she’d found a beach bar apparently equidistant between their hotel and mine, so I got a bus out to the bar that evening. On meeting, after Jill, Steph and I exchanged hugs and kisses, we compared notes and found that their hotel was on the far side of the bar from mine. Steph said “Bloody Google” but we ended up glad we’d come there. We were the only customers in the whole bar - the joys of visiting a holiday resort out of season - and the bartender was a really friendly guy who couldn’t do enough for us. Throughout the evening the telly played banging 80s tunes as well from Debbie Gibson, Tiffany, Adam and the Ants, Peter Gabriel and more. There was no raki or ouzo on the drinks menu but they did do Amstel Radler - my favourite tipple in a hot country - so I supped those all evening (surprising Steph, who’s used to me having a different drink each round). Steph and I noticed that here the Amstel bottles’ labels were in Greek letters. We spent a very pleasant evening chatting then got on a bus together, as we were going in the same direction though I had to get off before them. Waiting at the bus stop, we discussed the soaps and Steph said she and Jill had done the Corrie set tour and loved it. I asked which star they’d met, they said George the undertaker and that he was a really nice guy.
Friday was the pre-match fan meet-up at a restaurant-bar called ‘Envy’. When I arrived Jill and Steph were at a table in the corner with Crystal and a friend of Crystal’s called Kayleigh. After quick hellos, hugs and catch-ups with Leanne and Rachel, I went over and joined Crystal and Co. You couldn’t go to the bar and order drinks here, you had to wait until you caught the eye of a waiter or waitress, so when we did get the attention of one of them we ordered our drinks two each at a time. Again, no sign of ouzo or raki on the menu but they too did Amstel Radlers so I settled on them for the whole time again.
At 5.45 Deb and the Free Lionesses crew called us all to head outside for a couple of group photos with the seafront behind us. They were a while getting us all organised (Rachel said it had been like trying to herd cats) then they were a while getting enough photos done that they were happy with, including Rachel doing a panoramic 360 of us all shouting ‘England!’ Several of us still had outstanding drinks bills so we headed back into the bar, where the duty waitress had to call for her colleague for us to settle up with.
We did the leisurely 25 minute walk to the stadium, seeing a few more familiar faces among us as we drifted along. There were people who looked like riot police stationed outside the away end. What’s the betting the local police had braced themselves for a horde of marauding fans like those who follow the England men’s team abroad, and been bemused when they got us well-behaved lot instead?
We entered the stadium about an hour before kick-off. There was only one refreshment kiosk for the whole away end and it was up two flights of stairs. By the time I arrived after visiting the loo, the queue was a mile long. Still several places away from the front ten minutes before kick-off, I gave up at that point and headed for my seat - which had been taken but I was able to appropriate an aisle seat in the centre block with a good view of the pitch. Seeing the Lionesses’ names on the Titantron in Greek letters was a novelty.
There were people I’d seen in front of me in the queue arriving in their seats five or even ten minutes into the match, clutching their hard-won plastic cups of non-alcoholic beer. We thought Lauren James had given us the lead with a beautiful long lob on 20 minutes but it was chalked off. Eventually Georgia Stanway put England in front from close range late in the first half.
Basil was stood at the front of the end the whole time trying to get us all singing, exhorting us with “Come on England fans” and launching into the chants like “England till I die” and “Champions of Europe” or at one point “We’ve got Hannah Hampton in our goal”. During the second half he appeared to be having a bit of an exchange of views with one of the stewards stationed in front of our end.
I was delighted when Maya le Tissier made it two just after the hour from a tricky angle. As much as Lucy Bronze is a heroine of mine, I believe Maya has a rock-solid claim to be the starter right now, and her goal was exquisite. Soon after, Alessia Russo answered those fans who’ve been murmuring about her being off form for Arsenal, playing a one-two with Beth Mead and firing home low for England’s third.
The Lionesses took their feet off the gas a bit after that and a Greek forward caught our defence napping and pulled one back with a low shot from the left. Basil straight away yelled “it doesn’t matter, we’ll get one more to make up for it”, repeating the latter part a couple of times in between starting chants. We didn’t, but we held on for the rest of the game.
Security held us in the stadium for about a quarter of an hour after the match. Fortunately Deb from Free Lionesses was wandering among us keeping us updated. Finally we were set free and, apart from a bit of confusion about which way to follow at a crossroads, I made a pretty straightforward 15-minute walk back to the hotel, calling at a convenience store just before the hotel for a Greek frozen yogurt on a stick and a couple of lemon twist Pepsis.
On the bus to the airport on Saturday I found myself sat behind two girls, one of them in an England shirt. Through her long black hair, I could see bits of what was likely the name BRONZE above the number 2 on the back. On a Lioness trip abroad, you greet any fellow England fan as a friend, so I said hello to them. They revealed they were actually Greek, from Lamia on the mainland, and were on their way to get a ferry home. The girl in the England shirt was just a huge admirer of the Lionesses, especially Lucy, so she was gutted Lucy was out injured.
At Gatwick there was a long wait at the baggage carousel before it finally got moving. I was very tempted to go to the Gents but didn’t dare in case it started up before I got back; in the event, I’d have made it back comfortably. Happily my bag wasn’t too long in showing up and I made it to my hotel in Stratford (the Stratford in East London, not on Avon) comfortably in time to get to the theatre.
The play, Bloodsport, was a tad more violent than I’d expected but very interesting. As I’d heard, it relocated the story of Helen of Troy to present-day Essex. Here, Mario (the Agamemnon character) oozed toxic masculinity, and Helen was deeply resentful at having been made the pretext for a civil war and at having been forcibly brought back to the husband she’d left. In this version, Helen’s response was to form a vigilante army of women to take revenge on men. Michelle Dockery and Laura Aikman gave great performances as Helen and Cee (the Clytemnestra character) respectively.
Tuesday was the second leg of the England-Greece game, at Leicester, much to Jill and Steph’s delight as it’s their home city. We met in the bar of the Voco hotel, where I was staying, around 4.30, with Alice joining us.
Steph revealed that since the mad Icelander took us all for being members of the same family, she has Alice listed as ‘Junior’ in her phone and Alice has her listed as ‘Mum Steph’. Rachel and a couple of her pals dropped by quick to say hello to us on their way to a meet-up somewhere else.
We ordered food - Steph was going to have a light bite like me (I’d had a fairly hearty lunch from the Leicester City Chippy) but when Jill and Alice both ordered fish and chips Steph said “I’ve got to join you or I’ll get fish and chip envy”. As Steph and Alice asked each other how their meals were they called each other ‘junior’ and ‘Mumsy’. I joined in, asking Steph “how’s your fish and chips, darling?” and she called me “sweetheart” in reply. That had Alice saying she was going to get Steph and me England shirts for Christmas with “Mum” and “Dad” printed on them. When the laughter from that had died down Alice called Jill “Nanna”. I asked Jill “So are you my mum or Steph’s?” Steph told me about their plans to attend several of the Women’s Ashes next summer. The only downside is it’s at the same time as the Women’s football World Cup in Brazil. I noted that after their cricketing adventure ends they’d still have time to get to Rio for the football World Cup Final. From then on you could tell that Steph and Alice were itching with the idea of trying to get tickets.
When we’d eaten up we set off for the ground. Jill and Steph turned out to be in the same section as me, just a few rows back. Any jitters fans might have had about the closeness of the first game were dispelled as England cruised to a 5-0 win. The amazing Lauren James netted twice (once with a sumptuous assist from Maya le Tissier), Alessia Russo also bagged a brace and Georgia Stanway headed in a lovely cross fro a Lauren Hemp. During the second half Karen Carney and her two pitchside co-presenters walked along the touchline in front of my block - I called out “Y’alright Karen?” and she waved back.
Jill. Steph, Alice and I walked back to the Voco together. This time Rachel, Leanne and their crew came along to have a sesh on a long table adjacent to ours. Alice chipped early to get a train home to Nottingham. The rest of us carried on until Jill and Steph said they needed to make the short walk home, with work next day, and we all said our goodbyes to each other and to our friends at the other table.
Back to the office Thursday morning, to a week’s accumulated mountain of work. Happily there was nothing troublesome and I got finished by close of play.
Problem - I went to consult my phone, to find the route to walk the rest of the way, and found I was without internet. I made my way to the nearest bus stop to the hotel by following the numbers on the buildings (not as many of them displayed their numbers as one would have liked). Once there, thankfully the street my hotel was on was just off the main road and had a street name sign displayed. The hotel was a few minutes’ walk along the crumbling pavement.
The hotel was an ‘apart hotel’ and my room indeed turned out to be a spacious apartment. Once there I rang EE UK and explained my lack of net. The customer service agent advised me to hang up and then change mobile networks. Thank goodness that did the trick.
The main road my hotel was just off was mostly buildings like car and furniture showrooms with no eateries in evidence. A sign in the front porch of the hotel said there was food and drink 8 minutes along the main road. Sure enough, there was a cafe with the comforting sight of the familiar Coca-Cola awning. The menu was in Greek only, so I went with what I knew - a chicken souvlaki. Very tasty.
Steph messaged to say she’d found a beach bar apparently equidistant between their hotel and mine, so I got a bus out to the bar that evening. On meeting, after Jill, Steph and I exchanged hugs and kisses, we compared notes and found that their hotel was on the far side of the bar from mine. Steph said “Bloody Google” but we ended up glad we’d come there. We were the only customers in the whole bar - the joys of visiting a holiday resort out of season - and the bartender was a really friendly guy who couldn’t do enough for us. Throughout the evening the telly played banging 80s tunes as well from Debbie Gibson, Tiffany, Adam and the Ants, Peter Gabriel and more. There was no raki or ouzo on the drinks menu but they did do Amstel Radler - my favourite tipple in a hot country - so I supped those all evening (surprising Steph, who’s used to me having a different drink each round). Steph and I noticed that here the Amstel bottles’ labels were in Greek letters. We spent a very pleasant evening chatting then got on a bus together, as we were going in the same direction though I had to get off before them. Waiting at the bus stop, we discussed the soaps and Steph said she and Jill had done the Corrie set tour and loved it. I asked which star they’d met, they said George the undertaker and that he was a really nice guy.
Friday was the pre-match fan meet-up at a restaurant-bar called ‘Envy’. When I arrived Jill and Steph were at a table in the corner with Crystal and a friend of Crystal’s called Kayleigh. After quick hellos, hugs and catch-ups with Leanne and Rachel, I went over and joined Crystal and Co. You couldn’t go to the bar and order drinks here, you had to wait until you caught the eye of a waiter or waitress, so when we did get the attention of one of them we ordered our drinks two each at a time. Again, no sign of ouzo or raki on the menu but they too did Amstel Radlers so I settled on them for the whole time again.
At 5.45 Deb and the Free Lionesses crew called us all to head outside for a couple of group photos with the seafront behind us. They were a while getting us all organised (Rachel said it had been like trying to herd cats) then they were a while getting enough photos done that they were happy with, including Rachel doing a panoramic 360 of us all shouting ‘England!’ Several of us still had outstanding drinks bills so we headed back into the bar, where the duty waitress had to call for her colleague for us to settle up with.
We did the leisurely 25 minute walk to the stadium, seeing a few more familiar faces among us as we drifted along. There were people who looked like riot police stationed outside the away end. What’s the betting the local police had braced themselves for a horde of marauding fans like those who follow the England men’s team abroad, and been bemused when they got us well-behaved lot instead?
We entered the stadium about an hour before kick-off. There was only one refreshment kiosk for the whole away end and it was up two flights of stairs. By the time I arrived after visiting the loo, the queue was a mile long. Still several places away from the front ten minutes before kick-off, I gave up at that point and headed for my seat - which had been taken but I was able to appropriate an aisle seat in the centre block with a good view of the pitch. Seeing the Lionesses’ names on the Titantron in Greek letters was a novelty.
There were people I’d seen in front of me in the queue arriving in their seats five or even ten minutes into the match, clutching their hard-won plastic cups of non-alcoholic beer. We thought Lauren James had given us the lead with a beautiful long lob on 20 minutes but it was chalked off. Eventually Georgia Stanway put England in front from close range late in the first half.
Basil was stood at the front of the end the whole time trying to get us all singing, exhorting us with “Come on England fans” and launching into the chants like “England till I die” and “Champions of Europe” or at one point “We’ve got Hannah Hampton in our goal”. During the second half he appeared to be having a bit of an exchange of views with one of the stewards stationed in front of our end.
I was delighted when Maya le Tissier made it two just after the hour from a tricky angle. As much as Lucy Bronze is a heroine of mine, I believe Maya has a rock-solid claim to be the starter right now, and her goal was exquisite. Soon after, Alessia Russo answered those fans who’ve been murmuring about her being off form for Arsenal, playing a one-two with Beth Mead and firing home low for England’s third.
The Lionesses took their feet off the gas a bit after that and a Greek forward caught our defence napping and pulled one back with a low shot from the left. Basil straight away yelled “it doesn’t matter, we’ll get one more to make up for it”, repeating the latter part a couple of times in between starting chants. We didn’t, but we held on for the rest of the game.
Security held us in the stadium for about a quarter of an hour after the match. Fortunately Deb from Free Lionesses was wandering among us keeping us updated. Finally we were set free and, apart from a bit of confusion about which way to follow at a crossroads, I made a pretty straightforward 15-minute walk back to the hotel, calling at a convenience store just before the hotel for a Greek frozen yogurt on a stick and a couple of lemon twist Pepsis.
On the bus to the airport on Saturday I found myself sat behind two girls, one of them in an England shirt. Through her long black hair, I could see bits of what was likely the name BRONZE above the number 2 on the back. On a Lioness trip abroad, you greet any fellow England fan as a friend, so I said hello to them. They revealed they were actually Greek, from Lamia on the mainland, and were on their way to get a ferry home. The girl in the England shirt was just a huge admirer of the Lionesses, especially Lucy, so she was gutted Lucy was out injured.
At Gatwick there was a long wait at the baggage carousel before it finally got moving. I was very tempted to go to the Gents but didn’t dare in case it started up before I got back; in the event, I’d have made it back comfortably. Happily my bag wasn’t too long in showing up and I made it to my hotel in Stratford (the Stratford in East London, not on Avon) comfortably in time to get to the theatre.
The play, Bloodsport, was a tad more violent than I’d expected but very interesting. As I’d heard, it relocated the story of Helen of Troy to present-day Essex. Here, Mario (the Agamemnon character) oozed toxic masculinity, and Helen was deeply resentful at having been made the pretext for a civil war and at having been forcibly brought back to the husband she’d left. In this version, Helen’s response was to form a vigilante army of women to take revenge on men. Michelle Dockery and Laura Aikman gave great performances as Helen and Cee (the Clytemnestra character) respectively.
Tuesday was the second leg of the England-Greece game, at Leicester, much to Jill and Steph’s delight as it’s their home city. We met in the bar of the Voco hotel, where I was staying, around 4.30, with Alice joining us.
Steph revealed that since the mad Icelander took us all for being members of the same family, she has Alice listed as ‘Junior’ in her phone and Alice has her listed as ‘Mum Steph’. Rachel and a couple of her pals dropped by quick to say hello to us on their way to a meet-up somewhere else.
We ordered food - Steph was going to have a light bite like me (I’d had a fairly hearty lunch from the Leicester City Chippy) but when Jill and Alice both ordered fish and chips Steph said “I’ve got to join you or I’ll get fish and chip envy”. As Steph and Alice asked each other how their meals were they called each other ‘junior’ and ‘Mumsy’. I joined in, asking Steph “how’s your fish and chips, darling?” and she called me “sweetheart” in reply. That had Alice saying she was going to get Steph and me England shirts for Christmas with “Mum” and “Dad” printed on them. When the laughter from that had died down Alice called Jill “Nanna”. I asked Jill “So are you my mum or Steph’s?” Steph told me about their plans to attend several of the Women’s Ashes next summer. The only downside is it’s at the same time as the Women’s football World Cup in Brazil. I noted that after their cricketing adventure ends they’d still have time to get to Rio for the football World Cup Final. From then on you could tell that Steph and Alice were itching with the idea of trying to get tickets.
When we’d eaten up we set off for the ground. Jill and Steph turned out to be in the same section as me, just a few rows back. Any jitters fans might have had about the closeness of the first game were dispelled as England cruised to a 5-0 win. The amazing Lauren James netted twice (once with a sumptuous assist from Maya le Tissier), Alessia Russo also bagged a brace and Georgia Stanway headed in a lovely cross fro a Lauren Hemp. During the second half Karen Carney and her two pitchside co-presenters walked along the touchline in front of my block - I called out “Y’alright Karen?” and she waved back.
Jill. Steph, Alice and I walked back to the Voco together. This time Rachel, Leanne and their crew came along to have a sesh on a long table adjacent to ours. Alice chipped early to get a train home to Nottingham. The rest of us carried on until Jill and Steph said they needed to make the short walk home, with work next day, and we all said our goodbyes to each other and to our friends at the other table.
Back to the office Thursday morning, to a week’s accumulated mountain of work. Happily there was nothing troublesome and I got finished by close of play.